Paris to Normandy

Full France Experience - Paris to Normandy 12 days

Paris is divided into zones. It is helpful to learn and understand what zones you would like to see. Most of the tourist attractions are in Zone 1, you would want to travel about Zone 1-3 for sure. Zone 1 is the core of Paris, extrapolating out to Zone 2 & 3. Zone 4 includes Versailles, Zone 5 includes both airports, and Disneyland Paris. Understanding this helps you to understand what mass transit options you might want to select.

The following is a suggested itinerary if you have never been to Paris, or France. You will cover a lot of ground in 12 days. It is easy to swap some of this around to better suit your taste if you so desire, or to drop some of the day trips if you need a shorter timeframe.

Arrival Day. There are a lot of ways to get to the heart of Paris from the airport. We arrived at Charles Degaulle. The commute from the airports can take up to 45 minutes to get to city center due to traffic. You can hire a taxi, you can take a train, you can rent a car, and we chose to hire a driver. Personally, the price was reasonable and we knew we would be tired after the overnight flight and we didn’t want to deal with the luggage.

The taxi’s are a fixed fare and it is best if you book those in advance.

If you are up to it, the train is a good option. Once you arrive at CDG Airport, the most efficient and least expensive way to get into Paris is by taking the RER B city train leaving from either CDG Terminal 2 or Roissypole. The RER B train line runs north-south through the city-center of Paris, stopping first at Gare du Nord (the main station in Paris which also serves as the London to Paris Eurostar station), as well as a variety of other stations including Saint Michel/Nôtre Dame.

For the private driver, I would recommend Top Paris Transfer. For a party of 4 with luggage, it was $95Euro door-to-door.

To get to all the tourist attractions easily, I would strongly recommend utilizing the metro and trains. Go ahead and purchase the Navigo Easy RFID Pass (you need a credit card or Euros to purchase). Upon purchase, I suggest going ahead and loading it with the booklet of 10 tickets, called “un carnet”. This is super easy to accomplish at the airport, or at the nearest metro station to where you are staying. See more information in my Tips section.

I have listed several selections for hotels. It is worth mentioning that (1) air conditioning can be hard to find in France and (2) my preference is boutique type hotels, not chains, so that is what you will see mentioned. In this itinerary, I have suggested my favorites, but everyone has their own taste.

Day 1

Arrive at airport and get to your hotel. For just starting in Paris, I suggest Hotel Ares Eiffel Paris. It is in a great location in Zone 1, walking distance to Eiffel Tower, and has air-conditioning. If it is prior to your check in time, go ahead and have the hotel store your luggage and wander about a bit. This is a good time to get your Navigo Easy pass, or just stroll the streets and get a coffee and croissant. Go ahead and try the Paris Hop On Hop Off Bus, and this is a great way to get an overview of the city. We took advantage of this to see the Arc de Triomphe as it was the one attraction we wanted that isn’t particularly close to any other attraction. Return to your hotel, rest up a little bit if needed, and then get ready to see Paris at night. In the early evening, we chose 6:30p, take a dinner cruise on the Seine River. Make sure to get window seating. This is a lovely way to see Paris at night, including the Eiffel Tower, and you get a lovely meal as well. I highly recommend GetYourGuide for this, they offer several affordable Dinner Cruise options.

If you are up to it, wander around the Eiffel Tower after the cruise, or head back to your hotel for a good night’s rest.

Day 2

Today is a major tourist day to take in the wonderful sites of Paris. Wake up and grab a lovely pastry for breakfast and get ready for your 1.5 hour Golfcart tour of Paris. This is such a fun and custom way to see the city. I recommend TukTuk Ride Paris

Once you have finished your fun tour, get ready for a true foodie experience. Book yourself for an afternoon of education and food with a food tour by Devour Tours. You learn about several cultures while tasting a lot of different cuisines. This will take close to 4 hours.

After this, you will have a little time to shop and explore as you walk off all the food. Tonight is the night for the Eiffel Tower. We planned for a sunset experience, so purchased tickets for 8:30pm (again using GetYourGuide). Take advantage of the FULL experience. Get tickets for skip the line and lift with access to the summit. And, while at the very top, make sure to grab a glass of champagne from the Champagne Bar. You will need the guide to get you through the crowds. This is also an area for pickpockets, so please be mindful. The Eiffel tower has a light show worthy of watching. After sunset and up until 11:45pm, the Eiffel Tower sparkles and twinkles. It lasts a few minutes and occurs every 10 minutes.

Day 3

You really can’t go to Paris and not explore Versailles. And, with a stop at Versailles, you really need to plan at least 5.5 hours, if not a full day. It is best to go to Versailles on Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday to avoid the highest capacity crowds. And make sure to purchase tickets well in advance. Make sure to include the Gardens in your visit. I personally think the gardens are almost more amazing than the palace. The days alternate, but there are musical garden shows and fountain shows that you must see.

There are several tours to Versailles. I suggest the afternoon tour, again using GetYourGuide. It includes the transportation, Palace and the Gardens at a very reasonable price. It departs at 12:30p, so you have time to grab a lovely breakfast before departure. There is a café at Versailles if you need a drink or quick snack. Also, there are golfcarts you can rent for touring the gardens. If you want a golfcart, be prepared for a long line. Be prepared for crowds and a lot of walking. Wear comfortable clothes and good walking shoes. After a lovely day in Versailles, you might not want to struggle to find a place for dinner. I suggest making advance reservations at La Gualoise and end your day with a nice meal.

Day 4

Today is all about Paris History. Start with a well-planned visit to the Louvre. Again, tickets need to be purchased way in advance. It is best to see the Louvre on a Thursday or Friday night. It is closed on Tuesdays. One could literally spend one to two days in the Louvre to see it all. Working with a guide is best, so you know what you are seeing and why. For this trip, we planned a 3 hour “highlight tour”. There are many options, but for the bare bones minimum, this was perfect to see the “top ten” at the Louvre and have a guide walking us through the crowds. I recommend ProjectExpedition.com as the tour company.

On a side note, if you are interested in photography and the “artsy” beauty of Paris, I recommend using ProjectExpedition and taking a photography tour. Another good photography tour is through ApertureTours.

Once your Louvre tour is complete, go to the Tuileries Gardens. They are beautiful. Not like Versailles, but beautiful. While there, stop by Happy Caffe for a quick crepe or Petit Plisson for a light lunch. Both are in the gardens and a beautiful place to stop.

As you continue your walk through the gardens, head towards Place de la Concorde. This is one of the largest plazas, and historically, this is where the Revolution’s guillotine executions occurred. Continue on to the famous Angelina’s for chocolate. This is truly a “not to miss” stop. It is beautiful and the chocolate is wonderful. Stop for dessert and hot chocolate. If you haven’t been on or around Pont Alexandre III Bridge, now is the time to see this and you are heading towards Sainte Chapelle. Of course, this is a walking path, if you choose, you could take a metro from the Louvre to see all of these sites. For walking, each of these stops are within 10-15 minutes of each other as you progress forward. Your other Must See is Notre Dame and Sainte Chapelle. Notre Dame is planned to re-open December 2024. Sainte Chapelle is beautiful. Not the history of Notre Dame, but, I would say, prettier. If you are interested in heading a different direction, this is also an opportunity to see the Arc de Triomphe. You will need to do this via Metro. Go to Palais Royal Metro Stop, take Line 1 towards La Defense, arrive at Charles De Gaulle stop. There’s a pedestrian tunnel at Place Charles de Gaulle on the north side of the Champs-Élysées that will take you down to the arch. Walk 5 minutes to Arc de Triomphe. We visited in the day, as noted above, and it is breathtaking. Many say this is something to do at night, to capture the “City Of Lights” as well as the Eiffel Tower.

Ending our Paris History, it is time for the Paris Catacomb tour. It is Metro Stop Denfert-Rochereau. This tour is an 1.5hours long, as you walk the underground of Paris and learn history not often told. Again, I recommend ProjectExpedition as the tour for this. Dress for this as it will be chilly in the tunnels, stays around 55F year round.

If you are hungry after your tour, Chez Papa Montparanasse Denfert is a close-by place for dinner, or maybe stop in Le Belle Ronde for crepes.

Day 5

Time to leave Paris proper and explore more of France. This is a section that can be omitted if you are time-constrained, or only want to stay in and around Paris proper. Off to visit Normandy and experience DDay. I would recommend staying in Bayeux. It is a very quaint walkable city and a great location for DDay / Normandy tours. You can get to Bayeux via train, direct from Paris (about 2.5hours). You can even take a day trip or overnight trip, via train, from Paris to Normandy. With this extended itinerary, you can embrace DDay as well as explore a few other regions of France.

Take advantage of the cute towns you will pass enroute from Paris to Normandy. You can hire a tour company, such as ProjectExpedition or GetYourGuide. In this case, I suggest a private driver – so you can stop where you want and for how long you want as you traverse France to get to Bayeux. I have used MyDayTrip.com Driver many times and strongly recommend them. Have the driver pick you up early, 8 or 8:30, leave Paris and head towards Bayeux with stops in Giverny, Rouen, and Calvados. Once in Bayeux, I recommend staying at Le Lion D’Or Bayeux. It is not air-conditioned, but this area frequently cools quite nicely in the evenings. I could not find an air-conditioned hotel in Normandy.

Giverny, the home of Monet. Plan around 90 minutes to explore Monet’s Gardens and House. Take a moment to grab a quick sandwich at the Botanic Café or nearby street vendors.

Roun, known for the town where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake and the beautiful Rouen Cathedral. Absolutely superb quaint town to walk with loads of cafes to stop at. Plan an hour visit, maybe 90 minutes.

Calvados, when in the Normandy region, one must try Calvados, the locally sourced apple brandy. Make a quick stop at the distillery for a tour and tasting. 45-60 minutes.

Arrive in Bayeux. Deposit your luggage, get settled a bit, and then wander the town. The claim to fame for Bayeux is the Bayeux Tapestry, so plan a stop there. It was also the first city liberated during WWII. The hotel provides breakfast and has a restaurant for dinner if you desire. The pedestrian street is loaded with cafes. There is an open air market every Saturday. It is a 15-minute drive to Longues sur Mer and Arromanches. One can rent a car to tour this area, but again, I suggest guided tours.

Day 6

Today is all about WW11 and DDay. It will be a full day. Dress for the weather and wear comfortable walking shoes. I recommend ProjectExpedition as the tour company for the DDay beaches. Overlordtour.com would also be a good tour company to try. Start early, around 8 or 8:30 and you will finish around 5:30 or 6. This is an all encompassing American DDay tour. You will go to the American Cemetery, the German Cemetery, Pointe du Hoc, Sainte Mere Eglise, Utah and Omaha beaches, and the Airborne museum. The guide will provide all types of historical facts and help you realize the impact to this region and people. I suggest ProjectExpedition as it is a small group tour, and I feel that gives you more time and personal attention. In my opinion, this is a must-do if you travel to France. Knowing this history is not the same as walking the same path and hearing the accounts. During the tour, you will be provided time for a quick lunch.

Day 7

On this day, you really have two solid options. You can continue with the DDay education and take tours that show the non-American beaches or the Band of Brothers tour. The same tour companies can assist with this. Or embrace Normandy and experience all it has to offer. Every town has its WWII story. if desire. I suggest either renting a car or hiring a driver to go up the coast of Normandy, all the way to the Le’Etretat cliffs. Both are feasible. Once again, MyDayTrip.com came to the rescue by providing the driver for a custom trip. This can also be accomplished via bus or taxi. If you are not interested in traversing all the way to Le’Etretat, the bus or taxi option is your best financial choice. There are also tours for the towns nearby, I suggest looking at the tours provided to the cruise ships. A quick way to traverse the coast and see the beauty of this area, is to drive to Trouville, with stops in Honfleur then off to Le’Etretat and return. When we did this trip, we expanded beyond Le’Etretat another 20 minutes and went on to the Benedictine Distillery for a tour and tasting. All these beach towns are a bit touristy and more expensive than inland.

Trouville is the sister town to Deauville, so up to you. We chose Trouville as it is a tad quieter, not quite the ritz and casino life of Deauville. It is a beautiful town with stretches of cafes and ice cream along the beach. This is an area known for it’s seafood, Calvados, and camembert cheese. There is open Market on Wednesday and Sunday.

Honfleur was the inspiration for artists like Claude Monet. It is where the Seine River meets the English Channel. You must visit L’Eglise Sainte-Catherine church, an absolute wooden marvel. The old salt houses have been converted into restaurants on Rue de la Ville. This is a great halfway point on your journey to take a lunch break. I suggest Le Breard or L’Alcyone.

Le’Etretat is the scenic overlook of cliffs. Absolutely stunning. You can enjoy the cliffs by following the clifftop path from the town, it forms part of the GR21 long distance footpath. If you walk to the small Church of Notre Dame, you will have some of the most impressive views. There are three rock / cliff formations. You can also see the cliffs by water if you book a tour out of Honfleur or Deauville.

If you choose to wander on to Palais Benedictine for the tour and tasting, the tickets are $14Euro for an hour-ish tour. It is a beautiful Palais and a very nice experience.

Day 8

This is the last day in Normandy, so end it on a high note. One cannot leave this area without venturing out to Mont St Michel. This is also a lot of walking but a wonderful experience. Once on the island, it becomes fairly touristy, so food is expensive, but the views and the Abbey are so worth the visit. This is another item that it is important to have the tour and tickets purchased in advance. There are many warnings about the tides around Mont St Michel, and they aren’t kidding. The waters flood in at high-tide and practically evaporate at low-tide. Have the hotel hold your bags, knowing you will return to Paris later tonight via direct train, and go out for a 3 hour tour of Mont St Michel. Any longer than that is unnecessary. I suggest booking through BayeuxShuttle. It is super convenient, you get the tickets for the Abbey, and they handle the transportation.

When at Mont Saint-Michel, you can take the long walk to the island and Abbey, or use one of the many free trolleys. Be aware, the lines get long for the trolleys, so plan your timeline appropriately. First thing, head to the Abbey. That way you start off high and work your way down. The ramparts of Mont St Michel are frequently overlooked by the tourists and provide some great views.

Upon return to Bayeux, head to the train station for the late afternoon train. You should have no problem catching the 5:30pm train. Helpful tip: book the trains online prior to your arrival in France. Then you know the schedules and seats and everything is stress-free (thetrainline.com) From here, you can deviate from the itinerary and have a hotel near the airport and plan for departure. Or, you can book a hotel in Paris, Zone 1, but in a different area. With this extended itinerary, that is what we did, selecting to stay in Pigalle, Hotel Sacha, for this portion of our vacation. Be aware, with Hotel Sacha, it is high in service and personality, but the rooms are miniscule.

Day 9

Now we can experience the art and “Bohemian” influences of Paris by exploring Montmarte and Montparanasse. This is the home of Sacre Couer and Moulin Rouge. We chose the Moulin Rouge Champagne and Dinner Show. Absolutely Fantastic! There is a dress code for Moulin Rouge, they prefer pants and shirt for the men, and pants or dress for the women. Basically, no shorts, flip flops etc. This is another popular event, I would suggest booking tickets in advance.

Exploring Montmarte. This area is different from any other area of Paris. It is hilly. If you come from a western Metro station, such as Lamarck-Caulaincourt, take the relaxed stroll up the hill to see the quaint and charming side of Montmarte. There is good shopping on Rue des Martyrs, and Rue Lamarck or Rue Caulaincourt are the thoroughfares. Visit Sacre Coeur, arguably prettier than Notre Dame. It is quite the steep climb, you can choose the funicular. The view from Sacre Coeur is well worth the effort. After touring Sacre Coeur, treat yourself to art from the local artist square (Place de Tertre) or stroll along the River Seine. Go on the scavenger hunt to find the small vineyard of Montemarte. Musee d’Orsay is a beautiful museum, mostly impressionist art, and well worth a visit. There are plenty of fun cafes in this area. For an inexpensive lunch, I suggest Bouillon Pigalle (there is always a line, so be prepared). Or some many other fun places for a bite, like Café Blanche or Le Relais Gascon.

Day 10 – Day Trip to Reims

We are in the day trip excursions from Paris, towards the end of this 12 day itinerary. These can be removed, and you just stay in Paris or make your departure from Paris as needed. Time to explore champagne country! Reims is actually closer and easier to walk around than Champagne. I chose Reims for its history and charm. There are plenty of Champagne houses for tastings and touring, and a quaint town to boot. I suggest taking the TGV train, it is less than 1 hour journey. NOTE: be sure to book Paris to Reims Centre on TGV (otherwise you will not be near city center). There is a tram that runs every 5 minutes to take you to city center from the train station, or leave the train station and turn left and it is about a 15 minute walk (Rue du General Sarrail). In Reims, there is a Hop On Hop Off bus, which I recommend. Most advertise this town as easily walkable, and many of the attractions are fairly spread out. The Notre Dame of Reims is beautiful, take a tour of Palais du Tau, and hitch a ride out to the Museum of Surrender (where the German surrender of WWII was signed). A must try, when in Reims, is the biscuit rose, made at Biscuits Fossier, which offers tours. I’d suggest grabbing a light meal at Café du Palais, it has been family run since 1930. For your champagne experience, I recommend touring either Veuve Clicquot or Pommery. You can buy tickets that day, or purchase them in advance. If you still desire more champagne, go to Club Tresors de Champagne, which is a tasting room and lounge. TIP: make an advanced purchase of the 24hour Reims City Pass, and that will help you with discounts on tours, museums, and transportation.

Day 11 – Day Trip to Loire Valley and Castles

There are so many chateaus in Loire Valley, it is hard to decide where you want to tour. I made the decision based on convenience and the desire to use the trains, instead of a tour or renting a car. Heading out on your own, it is super easy with the trains. You can see Amboise Chateau and Close Luce Castle (home and resting place of Leonardo da Vinci) easily by train and walking. Take the train from Montparnasse. You can go direct, or have a stop in St Pierre des Corps, it takes about 2 hours. The Amboise train station is about a 20-minute walk to the Chateau. The Chateau is beautiful, and the quaint medieval town of Amboise is just a delight to walk around. We purchased “skip the line entry” to Amboise via Tiqets.com. After the chateau, take the time to walk this cute town. The clock tower is beautiful, and the views from the bridge Pont du Marechal Leclerc are worth it. If you would like a wine tasting in the caves, go to Les Caves Ambacia. If you have a bit of extra time and energy, you can walk to Chateau Gaillard, outside of Clos Luce. This combination of chateaus, is the easiest to do on your own. If you would like to see more, or different chateaus, I suggest booking a tour that includes transportation. You can find these on GetYourGuide.com or ProjectExpeditions.com.

Day 12 – Return Home

I hope you have enjoyed your time in Paris and the exposure to all notable things France. Today is the journey back home. As you will be overloaded with luggage and souvenirs, I suggest once again hiring a driver to take you to the airport. We used Top Paris Transfers once again.

Tips:

Key Phrases

The French want to be greeted. If you are a visitor, it helps to know a few key phrases.

• Bonjour ("bahn-joor") = 'Hello"
• Merci beaucoup ("mehr-see boh-koo") = "Thank you very much"
• Excusez-moi ("ex-koo-say mwa") = "Excuse me"
• Au revoir! ("oh-rev-vwha") = "Goodbye!"
• Parlez-vous Anglais? ("par-lay-voo awn-glay") = "Do you speak English?"
• L’addition, s’il vous plaît ("lih-ah-dih-see-ohn, sih-voo-play") = "Check, please"

Tourism Tips

• Be mindful a lot of stores are closed between 1-3pm
• For major tourist attractions, you need tickets in advance. For the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, purchase them 6-months in advance.
• No trains Normandy to Paris airport
• Bring your own washcloth if that is a bathing preference / bring a small travel fan as European hotels do not have A/C or does not have A/C like you are used to in the USA

Tipping

TIPPING: 5% for driver, 10% for tour guide. Waitstaff tip is included in the bill at 15%. At the bar, 1E per drink.

Passes

• Navigo Easy Pass is a reusable plastic RFID card sold for 2E. Tap the card on the fare gate or bus validation machine to use. Standard fares, ZONE 1 transit, are about 2.10E. If you buy 10 tickets with the Navigo Easy Pass, you will save 20%. Childre from 4-10 years old are half-fare.
• Museum Pass – this is a good purchase if you plan to visit at least 3 or more museums (or attractions such as Arc de Triomphe or Montparanasse Observation Deck).

FOOD Suggestions:

• Pom Canelle, Au Vieux d’Arcole, Café Le Procope, Mastino, HolyBelly5, Pink Mama (Paris)
• Chocolate at Angelina’s
• Le Consulat, Au Clairon des Chasseurs (Montemarte)
• Bouillon Republic, Café Blanche (Pigalle)
• Afternoon Tea: Le Meurice, the Ritz or the Hotel de Crillon.
• Hotel Suggestions: Hotel Ares Eiffel Paris, Hotel Sacha, Hotel Claridge, Hotel le Bellechasse Saint Germain, Hotel Rochester Champs Elysees, Secret de Paris
• Hotel Suggestions Bayeux: Le Lion d’or, or Villa Lara.
• Hotel Suggestions Caen: Mercure Caen Centre Port de Plaisance